/* Catania Guide. A white marble street plaque on a black lava-stone wall:
   the one bold thing. Everything else stays quiet. */
@font-face { font-family: "Young Serif"; src: url(/fonts/young-serif-latin-400-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); font-weight: 400; font-display: swap; unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }
@font-face { font-family: "Young Serif"; src: url(/fonts/young-serif-latin-ext-400-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); font-weight: 400; font-display: swap; unicode-range: U+0100-02AF, U+0304, U+0308, U+0329, U+1E00-1E9F, U+1EF2-1EFF, U+2020, U+20A0-20AB, U+20AD-20C0, U+2113, U+2C60-2C7F, U+A720-A7FF; }
@font-face { font-family: "Atkinson"; src: url(/fonts/atkinson-hyperlegible-next-latin-wght-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); font-weight: 200 800; font-display: swap; unicode-range: U+0000-00FF, U+0131, U+0152-0153, U+02BB-02BC, U+02C6, U+02DA, U+02DC, U+2000-206F, U+2074, U+20AC, U+2122, U+2191, U+2193, U+2212, U+2215, U+FEFF, U+FFFD; }
@font-face { font-family: "Atkinson"; src: url(/fonts/atkinson-hyperlegible-next-latin-ext-wght-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); font-weight: 200 800; font-display: swap; unicode-range: U+0100-02AF, U+0304, U+0308, U+0329, U+1E00-1E9F, U+1EF2-1EFF, U+2020, U+20A0-20AB, U+20AD-20C0, U+2113, U+2C60-2C7F, U+A720-A7FF; }
/* Type round: a marker for the few hand-written words next to a chalk doodle. Not preloaded. */
@font-face { font-family: "Marker"; src: url(/fonts/permanent-marker-latin-400-normal.woff2) format("woff2"); font-weight: 400; font-display: swap; }

:root {
  --calcare: #eef0ec;   /* page: pale limestone */
  --marmo: #fbfbf8;     /* plaques and cards: marble */
  --lava: #2f3236;      /* text and the lava wall */
  --pietra: #5b5f66;    /* quiet text */
  --ionio: #17577f;     /* links and the one action: the Ionian sea */
  --zolfo: #d9a514;     /* a saved place: Etna sulphur */
  --linea: #cdd0ca;
  --giunto: #b4b8b1;    /* design round: a firmer joint line for chips and strips */
  /* Design round: the lava wall is real ashlar. Courses of cut lava stone with
     dark joints, a fine grain of pores, and the afternoon light from the top
     left. Drawn as small SVG tiles, no image files, no requests. */
  --muro:
    radial-gradient(120% 90% at 18% -10%, rgba(255, 236, 200, .07), transparent 60%),
    url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='400' height='160'%3E%3Cpath d='M0 .75H400M0 80.75H400M150 0v80M290 0v80M70 80v80M230 80v80M335 80v80' fill='none' stroke='%23000' stroke-opacity='.34' stroke-width='1.5'/%3E%3Cpath d='M0 2.6H400M0 82.6H400M151.6 2v78M291.6 2v78M71.6 82v78M231.6 82v78M336.6 82v78' fill='none' stroke='%23fff' stroke-opacity='.04'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"),
    url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='160' height='160'%3E%3Cfilter id='g'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.9' numOctaves='2' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 1.3 0 0 0 -.62'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Cfilter id='p'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.55' numOctaves='1' seed='7' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3.4 0 0 -2.05'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='160' height='160' filter='url(%23g)' opacity='.14'/%3E%3Crect width='160' height='160' filter='url(%23p)' opacity='.5'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  --serif: "Young Serif", Georgia, serif;
  --sans: "Atkinson", system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --hand: "Marker", "Comic Sans MS", cursive;
  /* Type round: one fluid scale, about 1.2 on a phone and 1.25 on a desktop */
  --t--1: clamp(.8rem, .78rem + .1vw, .86rem);
  --t-0: clamp(1.0625rem, 1.03rem + .15vw, 1.125rem);
  --t-1: clamp(1.2rem, 1.14rem + .3vw, 1.4rem);
  --t-2: clamp(1.45rem, 1.33rem + .6vw, 1.75rem);
  --t-3: clamp(1.75rem, 1.5rem + 1.2vw, 2.2rem);
  --measure: 62ch;
  --gutter: 16px;
  --wrap: 1100px;
  color-scheme: light;
}
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%; }
::selection { background: var(--zolfo); color: var(--lava); }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--calcare); color: var(--lava); font: 400 var(--t-0)/1.55 var(--sans); }
img { display: block; max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
a { color: var(--ionio); text-underline-offset: .18em; text-decoration-thickness: .08em; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: .14em; }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--ionio); outline-offset: 2px; border-radius: 2px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.15; margin: 0 0 .5em; }
h1, h2 { text-wrap: balance; }
p { text-wrap: pretty; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(1.9rem, 7vw, 2.8rem); }
h2 { font-size: var(--t-2); }
h3 { font-size: var(--t-1); }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
ul { margin: 0; padding: 0; }
button { font: inherit; color: inherit; }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
.vh { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: var(--gutter); top: 8px; transform: translateY(calc(-100% - 12px)); background: var(--marmo); padding: .6em 1em; z-index: 10; }
.skip:focus { transform: none; } /* hidden above the page at any text size */
.small { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--pietra); }

/* The plaque: marble, a lava rule, a thin second rule inside. Like the
   street name plaques on the Baroque corners of Catania. */
.plaque {
  display: inline-block; background: var(--marmo); color: var(--lava);
  font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.1;
  padding: .32em .62em .38em; border: 2px solid var(--lava); border-radius: 3px;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--lava);
  /* Type round: the letters are cut into the marble */
  letter-spacing: .012em; font-kerning: normal; text-shadow: 0 1px 0 #fff, 0 -.5px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, .22);
}
.plaque-sm { font-size: 1.05rem; padding: .28em .55em .32em; }
.plaque-lg { font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 8vw, 2.7rem); }
.plaque-xl { font-size: clamp(2rem, 9.6vw, 4.6rem); padding: .26em .5em .34em; border-width: 3px; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 5px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 7px var(--lava), 0 1px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, .5), 0 18px 28px -14px rgba(0, 0, 0, .75); }
/* Iteration 5: the big plaques are real marble. Faint grey veins, and when
   the page opens a band of warm afternoon sun slides across once. CSS only,
   inside the plaque; with reduced motion the band never shows. overflow: clip
   (not hidden) keeps the plaque's text baseline, so nothing below it moves. */
.plaque-lg, .plaque-xl {
  position: relative; overflow: clip;
  background-image:
    linear-gradient(118deg, transparent 16%, rgba(150, 152, 144, .13) 19%, transparent 23%),
    linear-gradient(124deg, transparent 58%, rgba(150, 152, 144, .1) 61%, transparent 66%);
}
.plaque-lg::after, .plaque-xl::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; pointer-events: none;
  background: linear-gradient(105deg, transparent 32%, rgba(255, 226, 160, .55) 46%, rgba(255, 246, 222, .8) 50%, rgba(255, 226, 160, .55) 54%, transparent 68%);
  transform: translateX(-110%);
  animation: sole 1.5s cubic-bezier(.45, .05, .35, 1) .5s both;
}
@keyframes sole { to { transform: translateX(110%); } }
@supports not (overflow: clip) { .plaque-lg::after, .plaque-xl::after { display: none; } } /* old browsers: no sun, layout unchanged */

/* Header */
.top { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; padding: 12px var(--gutter); max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; }
.brand { text-decoration: none; }
.topnav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 14px; font-size: .95rem; }
.topnav a { color: var(--lava); display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; margin: -10px 0; padding: 0 4px; } /* 44px to tap, header height unchanged */
.saved-link { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 4px; text-decoration: none; }
.saved-link .heart { fill: var(--zolfo); stroke: var(--lava); }
.is-home .top .brand { display: none; }
/* Design round: on the home page the wall starts at the top edge, and the
   language link hangs on it. The header keeps its place in the tab order. */
.is-home .top { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; right: 0; z-index: 3; justify-content: flex-end; padding-top: 8px; padding-bottom: 8px; }
.is-home .topnav a { color: var(--marmo); }
.is-home .topnav a:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--marmo); }
/* Language switch: a toggle on a small marble plaque. IT always sits left,
   EN always right; a lava knob marks the current language and slides to the
   other side when you tap anywhere on it. One link, named with the full
   language name for screen readers ("English"). */
.topnav a.lang-switch {
  position: relative; display: inline-grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; align-items: center;
  width: 92px; height: 34px; min-height: 0; margin: 0; padding: 0 5px;
  background: var(--marmo); color: var(--lava); text-decoration: none;
  border: 2px solid var(--lava); border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 2px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 3px var(--lava);
  font-family: var(--serif); font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .1em; line-height: 1;
}
.lang-switch::before { /* the knob */
  content: ""; position: absolute; top: 5px; bottom: 5px; left: 5px; width: calc(50% - 5px);
  background: var(--lava); border-radius: 1px; transition: transform .24s cubic-bezier(.3, .7, .3, 1);
}
.lang-switch.is-en::before { transform: translateX(100%); }
.lang-switch::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: -7px -2px; } /* 44px to tap */
.lang-opt { position: relative; z-index: 1; text-align: center; padding-left: .1em; transition: color .24s; }
.is-it .lang-opt[lang="it"], .is-en .lang-opt[lang="en"] { color: var(--marmo); }
.topnav a.lang-switch:hover { background-color: #f3f4f0; }
.topnav a.lang-switch:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--lava); outline-offset: 3px; }
.is-home .topnav a.lang-switch { color: var(--lava); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 2px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 3px var(--lava), 0 8px 14px -8px rgba(0, 0, 0, .7); }
.is-home .topnav a.lang-switch:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--marmo); outline-offset: 4px; }

main { display: block; }
main > *, .foot { max-width: var(--wrap); margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-left: var(--gutter); padding-right: var(--gutter); }

/* Hero: the lava wall */
.hero {
  max-width: none; margin: 0 0 20px; padding: 50px var(--gutter) 34px; text-align: center; color: var(--marmo);
  background-color: var(--lava); background-image: var(--muro); background-position: 0 0, -40px 30px, 0 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid #1d1f22;
}
.hero .plaque { margin: 0 auto 12px; }
.hero .lead { max-width: 30em; margin: 0 auto; font-size: 1rem; line-height: 1.4; color: #e3e5e1; }

.lead { font-size: 1.08rem; color: var(--pietra); max-width: 38em; }
.list-head { padding-top: 6px; }

/* Search */
.search { position: relative; margin: 0 auto 16px; }
.is-home .search { margin-top: -42px; position: relative; z-index: 2; max-width: 34rem; }
.search input {
  width: 100%; font: inherit; font-size: 1.1rem; color: var(--lava); background: var(--marmo);
  border: 2px solid var(--lava); border-radius: 3px; padding: .72em 3em .72em 2.7em; min-height: 52px;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--giunto);
  background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 24 24' fill='none' stroke='%235b5f66' stroke-width='1.8' stroke-linecap='round'%3E%3Ccircle cx='10.5' cy='10.5' r='6.5'/%3E%3Cpath d='M15.5 15.5 21 21'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: .95em 50%; background-size: 1.15em;
  -webkit-appearance: none; appearance: none;
}
.is-home .search input { box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--giunto), 0 10px 22px -16px rgba(0, 0, 0, .6); }
.search input:focus-visible { outline-offset: 3px; }
.search input::placeholder { color: var(--pietra); }
.search input::-webkit-search-cancel-button { -webkit-appearance: none; }
.search-clear { position: absolute; right: 6px; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-50%); width: 40px; height: 40px; border: 0; background: none; font-size: 1.6rem; line-height: 1; cursor: pointer; color: var(--pietra); }

/* Categories: six marble tiles. On a phone they are one row you swipe,
   so the first place still shows in the first screen. */
/* Swipe rows: 6px above and below so the 3px focus ring is not cut off,
   and the same gutter as the page when a focused tile scrolls into view.
   The negative margins keep the rows exactly where they were. */
.cats { overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: none; margin-top: -4px; margin-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 6px; scroll-padding-inline: var(--gutter); }
.cats::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
.cats ul { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: 0; width: max-content; margin: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--lava); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--giunto); }
.cats li + li { border-left: 1px solid var(--linea); }
.cat {
  display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: 7px; min-height: 44px;
  background: transparent; color: var(--lava); text-decoration: none; font-size: .95rem; padding: 0 16px 0 14px; white-space: nowrap;
}
.cat .ic { flex: none; width: 22px; height: 22px; fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1.6; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.cat:hover { background: var(--marmo); }
.cat.is-empty { color: var(--pietra); }
.cat.is-empty .ic { opacity: .6; }
.empty-cat { background: var(--marmo); border-radius: 8px; padding: 14px 16px; margin: 0 0 30px; }
.cats .cat.is-on { background: var(--lava); color: var(--marmo); }

/* Near me, saved, areas: one row you swipe on a phone */
.filters { display: flex; flex-wrap: nowrap; align-items: center; gap: 8px; overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: none; margin-top: -4px; margin-bottom: -2px; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 6px; scroll-padding-inline: var(--gutter); }
.filters::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
/* Filters round: quick switches (open now, near me, saved) and one "Zona"
   button. The areas open in a panel under the row, so the row stays short
   however many areas the guide gets. Area links stay real pages. */
.area-btn { flex: none; }
.area-label { display: inline-flex; align-items: baseline; gap: .4em; }
.area-label b { font-weight: 700; }
.caret { width: 16px; height: 16px; fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 2; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; transition: transform .2s; }
.area-btn[aria-expanded="true"] .caret { transform: rotate(180deg); }
.area-btn.is-set { border-color: var(--lava); border-width: 2px; }
.area-btn[aria-expanded="true"] { background: var(--lava); border-color: var(--lava); color: var(--marmo); }
html:not(.js) .area-btn { display: none; }
.area-panel { margin-top: 6px; margin-bottom: 12px; }
.js .area-panel:not(.is-open) { display: none; }
.js .area-panel.is-open { animation: apri .2s ease-out; }
@keyframes apri { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(-4px); } }
.area-panel ul { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; padding: 12px; background: var(--marmo); border: 1px solid var(--giunto); border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--linea); }
.area-panel .chip { background: var(--calcare); }
.area-panel .chip.is-on { background: var(--lava); }
.chip-act[aria-pressed="true"] .dot { background: #5fd38a; box-shadow: 0 0 0 3px rgba(95, 211, 138, .25); }
.dot { width: 8px; height: 8px; border-radius: 50%; background: #1d6b3a; flex: none; }
.chip {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; min-height: 40px; padding: 0 14px; border-radius: 3px;
  border: 1px solid var(--giunto); background: transparent; color: var(--lava); text-decoration: none; font-size: .95rem; white-space: nowrap; cursor: pointer;
  position: relative;
}
.chip::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: -2px 0; } /* 44px to tap, 40px to see */
.chip:hover { border-color: var(--lava); }
.chip.is-on, .chip[aria-pressed="true"] { background: var(--lava); border-color: var(--lava); color: var(--marmo); }
.chip .heart { width: 18px; height: 18px; fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1.8; }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] .heart { fill: var(--zolfo); stroke: var(--zolfo); }
.actions { flex: none; display: flex; gap: 8px; }
.near-fail { color: #8a2a1a; margin-top: 0; }
.count { color: var(--pietra); font-size: .95rem; margin-top: 2px; margin-bottom: 12px; }
/* a lava rule over the list, on the content edges only */
.count::before, .nearby::before { content: ""; display: block; height: 2px; background: var(--lava); margin-bottom: 7px; }

/* Cards */
.cards { list-style: none; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 26px; margin-bottom: 36px; }
.card { position: relative; }
.card-link { display: block; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; }
.card-photo { display: block; aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; overflow: hidden; border-radius: 2px; background: #d9dcd6; }
.card-photo img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform .6s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1); }
.card-link:hover .card-photo img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.card-name { margin: -26px 0 0 12px; position: relative; font-size: 1.35rem; }
.card-link:hover .plaque { box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--ionio); border-color: var(--ionio); }
.card-meta { margin: 10px 0 4px; color: var(--pietra); font-size: .95rem; }
.card-dist::before { content: " "; }
.card-dist { color: var(--ionio); }
.card-note { margin: 0; max-width: 34em; }
.save {
  position: absolute; top: 10px; right: 10px; width: 46px; height: 46px; border-radius: 50%; border: 0; cursor: pointer;
  background: rgba(251, 251, 248, .92); display: grid; place-items: center; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.25);
}
.save .heart { width: 24px; height: 24px; fill: none; stroke: var(--lava); stroke-width: 1.8; }
.save[aria-pressed="true"] .heart { fill: var(--zolfo); stroke: #8a6a00; }
.save[aria-pressed="true"] { animation: pop .28s ease-out; }
@keyframes pop { 50% { transform: scale(1.15); } }
.cards-small .card-name { font-size: 1.1rem; }

/* Stories */
.stories ul { list-style: none; display: grid; gap: 12px; margin-bottom: 36px; }
.stories h2 { padding-top: 10px; border-top: 2px solid var(--lava); }
.stories a { display: block; padding: 14px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--linea); text-decoration: none; color: var(--lava); }
.story-title { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.2rem; }
.story-lead { display: block; color: var(--pietra); }

/* Breadcrumbs */
.crumbs ol { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px; margin: 4px 0 14px; padding: 0; font-size: .9rem; color: var(--pietra); }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: "/" / ""; margin-right: 4px; color: var(--linea); } /* screen readers skip the slash */
.crumbs a { color: var(--pietra); }

/* Place page */
.place { max-width: 760px; }
.is-place main > .crumbs, .is-place main > .nearby { max-width: 760px; } /* one column edge for the whole place page */
.place-photo { margin: 0 calc(-1 * var(--gutter)); position: relative; }
.place-photo img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.place-photo { margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0; }
.place-photo figcaption { position: absolute; right: 8px; top: 8px; max-width: 70%; font-size: .78rem; line-height: 1.3; color: var(--marmo); background: rgba(47, 50, 54, .78); padding: 4px 8px; border-radius: 4px; }
.place-head { margin-top: -34px; position: relative; padding: 0 4px; }
.place-head h1 { margin-bottom: 10px; }
.place-kind { color: var(--pietra); }
.place-kind a { color: var(--pietra); }
.place-actions { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; margin: 6px 0 24px; }
.btn-main {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 54px; padding: 0 28px; border-radius: 4px;
  background: var(--ionio); color: #fff; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; font-size: 1.05rem; letter-spacing: .01em;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 4px var(--ionio), inset 0 0 0 5.5px rgba(255, 255, 255, .85); /* the blue Italian direction sign, white rule inside */
  transition: background-color .2s ease;
}
.btn-main:hover { background: #0f4666; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 4px #0f4666, inset 0 0 0 5.5px #fff; }
.btn-main:active { transform: translateY(1px); }
.save-big { position: static; box-shadow: none; border: 1px solid var(--giunto); border-radius: 4px; width: 54px; height: 54px; background: var(--marmo); }
.save-big:hover { border-color: var(--lava); }
/* Design round: sections of a place read like a printed guide. A lava rule
   over each heading, the note set as a quote in the plaque's serif. */
.place .note, .place .facts, .place .hours { border-top: 2px solid var(--lava); padding-top: 12px; }
.nearby::before { margin-bottom: 12px; }
.place .note h2, .place .facts h2, .place .hours h2, .nearby h2 { font-size: 1.3rem; margin-bottom: .6em; }
.note { margin-bottom: 30px; }
.note-text { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.24rem; line-height: 1.45; margin-bottom: .8em; max-width: 30em; }
.note-meta { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--pietra); padding-left: 12px; border-left: 2px solid var(--zolfo); }
.facts dl { margin: 0 0 26px; }
.facts dl > div { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7.5em 1fr; gap: 10px; padding: 10px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--linea); }
.facts dl > div:first-child { border-top: 0; padding-top: 0; }
.facts dt { color: var(--pietra); }
.facts dd { margin: 0; overflow-wrap: anywhere; }
.our-site { margin: 4px 0 0; font-size: .92rem; color: var(--pietra); }
.hours table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; max-width: 26rem; margin-bottom: 8px; }
.hours th, .hours td { text-align: left; font-weight: 400; padding: 6px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--linea); }
.hours tr.is-today th, .hours tr.is-today td { font-weight: 700; }
.open-state { font-weight: 700; }
.open-state.is-open { color: #1d6b3a; }
.nearby { margin-top: 10px; }

/* 404: a plaque on the lava wall too */
.is-404 .hero { margin-bottom: 26px; padding-top: 44px; padding-bottom: 44px; }
.is-404 .hero { position: relative; }
.is-404 .lost-cat { right: 14px; bottom: -4px; flex-direction: row-reverse; }
.is-404 .lost-cat .doodle { width: 54px; height: 54px; }
.is-404 .lost-cat .tag { color: var(--zolfo); transform: rotate(6deg); }
.is-404 .lost-bite { position: absolute; left: 12px; bottom: 10px; width: 40px; height: 40px; transform: rotate(14deg); opacity: .9; }
.is-404 .lost-back { display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; gap: 2px; }
.is-404 .lost-trail { display: flex; align-items: flex-end; gap: 4px; }
.is-404 .lost-trail .doodle { width: 72px; height: 72px; }
.is-404 .hero .plaque { font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 7.4vw, 3.4rem); text-wrap: balance; }
.back { text-align: center; padding-bottom: 20px; }

/* Text pages */
.text { max-width: 40rem; padding-top: 10px; padding-bottom: 30px; }
.text ul { padding-left: 1.2em; margin-bottom: 1em; }
.text li { margin-bottom: .4em; }

/* Footer */
.foot {
  max-width: none; margin-top: 28px; padding: 36px max(var(--gutter), calc((100% - var(--wrap)) / 2 + var(--gutter))) 44px;
  background-color: var(--lava); background-image: var(--muro); color: #d5d8d2; border-top: 1px solid #1d1f22;
}
.foot .plaque { margin-bottom: 16px; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--lava), 0 12px 20px -12px rgba(0, 0, 0, .8); }
.foot-about { color: #d5d8d2; max-width: 34em; }
.foot-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0 20px; font-size: .9rem; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .14); margin-top: 18px; padding-top: 4px; }
.foot-links a { color: #d5d8d2; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; }
.foot-links a:hover { color: #fff; }
.foot :focus-visible { outline-color: var(--marmo); }
.install { background: var(--marmo); color: var(--lava); border-radius: 3px; padding: 14px 16px; margin-bottom: 26px; }
.install :focus-visible { outline-color: var(--ionio); }
.install-title { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.15rem; margin-bottom: .4em; }
.btn-quiet { background: none; border: 1px solid var(--lava); border-radius: 3px; min-height: 40px; padding: 0 16px; cursor: pointer; }

/* Cookie choice: a piece of the lava wall that rises from the bottom, the
   marble plaque on it, the cat peeking over the top. Yes and no are the
   same marble button: neither is pushed. */
.foot-links button { background: none; border: 0; padding: 0; color: #d5d8d2; font-size: inherit; min-height: 44px; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: .18em; text-decoration-thickness: .08em; }
.foot-links button:hover { color: #fff; }
.consent {
  position: fixed; z-index: 20; left: 8px; right: 8px; bottom: max(8px, env(safe-area-inset-bottom));
  max-width: 34rem; margin: 0 auto; padding: 18px 16px 16px; border-radius: 4px;
  background-color: var(--lava); background-image: var(--muro); color: #e4e6e1;
  border-top: 1px solid #1d1f22; box-shadow: 0 -2px 0 rgba(0, 0, 0, .25), 0 18px 40px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, .7);
  animation: consent-up .45s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1);
}
.consent-head { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; margin: 0 0 10px; }
.consent .doodle { color: rgba(251, 251, 248, .86); filter: drop-shadow(0 0 .6px rgba(255, 255, 255, .5)); }
.consent .doodle path { stroke-dashoffset: 0; }
.consent .consent-cookie { width: 44px; height: 44px; transform: rotate(-10deg); }
.consent .consent-crumbs { width: 38px; height: 38px; margin-left: -4px; opacity: .8; }
.consent .consent-t { margin: 0; font-size: 1.1rem; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 3px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 4px var(--lava), 0 10px 18px -10px rgba(0, 0, 0, .8); }
.consent-body { font-size: .95rem; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0 0 14px; }
.consent-body a { color: #fff; }
.consent-btns { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 10px; }
.consent-btn {
  min-height: 48px; padding: 0 12px; cursor: pointer; background: var(--marmo); color: var(--lava);
  font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1rem; border: 2px solid var(--marmo); border-radius: 3px;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 2px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 3px var(--lava);
}
.consent-btn:hover { box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 2px var(--marmo), inset 0 0 0 3px var(--ionio); color: var(--ionio); }
.consent :focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--zolfo); outline-offset: 2px; }
.consent .consent-peek { position: absolute; right: 22px; top: -50px; width: 64px; height: 64px; color: var(--lava); filter: none; }
.consent .consent-peek .mv { animation: vivo .6s ease-in-out 1s 2; }
@keyframes consent-up { from { transform: translateY(24px); opacity: 0; } }

@media (min-width: 760px) {
  :root { --gutter: 28px; }
  .cats { overflow: visible; margin-bottom: 10px; }
  .cats ul { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); width: auto; }
  .cat { flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; min-height: 84px; padding: 10px 4px; }
  .cat .ic { width: 26px; height: 26px; }
  .filters { flex-wrap: wrap; overflow: visible; gap: 8px 10px; margin-bottom: 6px; }
  .card-photo { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; }
  .count { margin-top: 6px; margin-bottom: 12px; }
  .hero .lead { font-size: 1.08rem; line-height: 1.55; }
  .hero .plaque { margin-bottom: 18px; }
  .cards { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 34px 28px; }
  /* The first place shown leads, two columns wide, like the lead story of a printed guide */
  .cards:not(.cards-small) > .card:nth-child(1 of :not([hidden])) { grid-column: span 2; }
  .cards:not(.cards-small) > .card:nth-child(1 of :not([hidden])) .card-photo { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; }
  .cards:not(.cards-small) > .card:nth-child(1 of :not([hidden])) .card-name { font-size: 1.75rem; margin-top: -32px; }
  .cards:not(.cards-small) > .card:nth-child(1 of :not([hidden])) .card-note { font-size: 1.12rem; }
  .hero { padding: 92px var(--gutter) 78px; }
  .is-404 .hero { padding-top: 70px; padding-bottom: 70px; }
  .is-404 .lost-bite { width: 64px; height: 64px; left: 28px; bottom: 18px; }
  .is-404 .lost-cat .doodle { width: 72px; height: 72px; }
  .is-404 .lost-trail .doodle { width: 104px; height: 104px; }
  .place-photo { margin: 0; }
  .place-photo img { border-radius: 2px; }
  .foot { padding-top: 48px; padding-bottom: 52px; }
}

/* ---- Type round: labels, quotes, text pages ---- */
/* Labels: small capitals in the sans, like the small print of a printed guide */
.card-meta, .place-kind, .count, .crumbs ol, .facts dt { font-size: var(--t--1); font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: .09em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.facts dt { padding-top: .25em; }
.card-dist { text-transform: none; letter-spacing: 0; }
.hours table, .open-state { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
/* The note is a quote, with real quote marks. The first one hangs in the margin. */
:lang(it) { quotes: "«" "»"; }
:lang(en) { quotes: "“" "”"; }
.note-text { text-indent: -.45em; }
.note-text::before { content: open-quote; }
.note-text::after { content: close-quote; }
/* Text pages: a measure, a drop cap, big numerals */
.text p, .text li { max-width: var(--measure); }
.about-art { margin: 6px 0 22px; }
.about-art img { width: 100%; height: auto; }
.text > p:first-of-type::first-letter { font-family: var(--serif); float: left; font-size: 3.5em; line-height: .82; padding: .06em .1em 0 0; }
@supports (initial-letter: 2) or (-webkit-initial-letter: 2) {
  .text > p:first-of-type::first-letter { float: none; font-size: inherit; line-height: inherit; padding: 0; margin-right: .1em; -webkit-initial-letter: 2; initial-letter: 2; }
}
.text ol.how { list-style: none; counter-reset: how; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 1em; }
.text ol.how li { counter-increment: how; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.9rem 1fr; gap: 8px; align-items: baseline; padding: 10px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--linea); margin: 0; }
.text ol.how li::before { content: counter(how); font: 400 var(--t-3)/1 var(--serif); color: var(--zolfo); -webkit-text-stroke: .5px var(--lava); }
/* A link in running text gets a chalk squiggle on hover */
.text a:hover { text-decoration: none; padding-bottom: 4px; background: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='16' height='6'%3E%3Cpath d='M0 3q4-4 8 0t8 0' fill='none' stroke='%2317577f' stroke-width='1.4' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") repeat-x 0 100% / 16px 6px; }
/* A chalk line in sulphur under the section headings */
.text h2, .place h2, .nearby h2 {
  width: fit-content; padding-bottom: .22em;
  background: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='120' height='8' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M2 5q14-5 30-1t30-1 28 1 28-2' fill='none' stroke='%23d9a514' stroke-width='2.4' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") no-repeat 0 100% / 100% .34em;
}

/* ---- Chalk doodles (src/doodles.mjs): chalk on the lava wall, marker on limestone ---- */
.doodle { width: 64px; height: 64px; flex: none; fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 2.2; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; overflow: visible; color: var(--lava); }
.doodle .acc { stroke: var(--zolfo); }
.hero .doodle, .foot .doodle { color: rgba(251, 251, 248, .86); filter: drop-shadow(0 0 .6px rgba(255, 255, 255, .5)); }
/* A doodle draws itself, line after line, when it comes into view. The
   hidden start exists only when the script runs (html.js). */
.js .doodle path { stroke-dasharray: 1; stroke-dashoffset: 1; }
.js .doodle.in path { stroke-dashoffset: 0; transition: stroke-dashoffset .7s cubic-bezier(.5, .1, .3, 1) calc(var(--i) * .16s); }
/* A little life when you touch one */
.doodle .mv { transform-box: fill-box; transform-origin: 50% 100%; }
.doodle:hover .mv, .doodle.poke .mv { animation: vivo .6s ease-in-out; }
@keyframes vivo { 30% { transform: rotate(-9deg) translateY(-1.5px); } 65% { transform: rotate(6deg); } }
.doodle-occhio:hover .mv, .doodle-occhio.poke .mv { animation-name: batti; }
@keyframes batti { 50% { transform: scaleY(.2) translateY(6px); } }
/* Hand tags: a word in marker next to a doodle */
.tag { display: inline-block; font: 400 1rem/1 var(--hand); letter-spacing: .02em; color: var(--lava); transform: rotate(-5deg); }
.hero .tag { color: var(--zolfo); }
.js .tag { opacity: 0; transform: rotate(-12deg) translateY(6px); }
.js .tag.in { opacity: 1; transform: rotate(-5deg); transition: opacity .4s .7s, transform .5s cubic-bezier(.3, 1.4, .5, 1) .7s; }
/* On the walls the doodles take no room: the first screen stays the same */
.hero, .foot, .place .note { position: relative; }
.hero { overflow: hidden; }
.hero > .plaque, .hero > .lead { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
.wall-art { position: absolute; margin: 0; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; }
.wall-eye { left: 14px; top: 9px; }
.wall-eye .doodle { width: 36px; height: 36px; transform: rotate(-8deg); }
.wall-eye .tag { font-size: .88rem; }
.wall-door, .wall-star { display: none; }
.wall-cat { position: absolute; right: 14px; bottom: -6px; width: 46px; height: 46px; }
.foot-art { position: absolute; top: 20px; right: max(var(--gutter), calc((100% - var(--wrap)) / 2 + var(--gutter))); display: flex; align-items: flex-end; gap: 6px; }
.foot-art .doodle { width: 42px; height: 42px; }
.foot-art .doodle-lampione { width: 58px; height: 58px; }
.install:not([hidden]) + .foot-art { display: none; }
.list-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: flex-end; gap: 12px; }
.list-head .doodle { width: 56px; height: 56px; margin-bottom: 1em; }
.note-eye { position: absolute; right: 0; top: 8px; width: 38px; height: 38px; }
.text-art { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 10px 28px; margin: 1.4em 0 1.6em; }
.art-pair { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; white-space: nowrap; }
.text-art .doodle { width: 56px; height: 56px; }
/* Kittens. One peeks over the top of the footer wall, one sleeps on the
   rule over "nearby", one walks on the rule over the list (wide screens:
   on a phone the chips are there). They take no room. */
.foot .wall-peek { position: absolute; left: 20%; top: -62px; width: 80px; height: 80px; color: var(--lava); filter: none; }
.foot { margin-top: 52px; } /* room for the kitten's ears above the wall */
.nearby, .count-row { position: relative; }
.nearby > .doodle-dorme { position: absolute; right: var(--gutter); top: -48px; width: 56px; height: 56px; }
.count-row > .doodle { display: none; }
.empty-cat { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; }
.empty-cat .doodle { width: 48px; height: 48px; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) {
  .wall-art { flex-direction: column; gap: 10px; }
  .wall-eye { left: max(5%, calc(50% - 560px)); top: 108px; }
  .wall-eye .doodle { width: 64px; height: 64px; }
  .wall-eye .tag { font-size: 1.1rem; }
  .wall-door { display: flex; right: max(6%, calc(50% - 540px)); bottom: 46px; }
  .wall-door .doodle { width: 84px; height: 84px; }
  .wall-door .tag { font-size: 1.1rem; order: -1; }
  .wall-star { display: block; position: absolute; left: max(15%, calc(50% - 440px)); bottom: 64px; width: 40px; height: 40px; transform: rotate(8deg); }
  .foot-art { top: 34px; }
  .foot-art .doodle { width: 60px; height: 60px; }
  .foot-art .doodle-lampione { width: 84px; height: 84px; }
  .list-head .doodle { width: 76px; height: 76px; }
  .count-row > .doodle { display: block; position: absolute; right: var(--gutter); top: -48px; width: 56px; height: 56px; }
}

/* ---- Small motion ---- */
/* Cards below the first screen rise in once (site.js marks them) */
.card.rise { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(8px); }
.card.rise.in { opacity: 1; transform: none; transition: opacity .5s ease, transform .5s cubic-bezier(.2, .7, .2, 1); }
/* The name plaque travels from the card to the place page, where the browser can do it */
@view-transition { navigation: auto; }

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { animation: none !important; transition: none !important; }
  @view-transition { navigation: none; }
}